First Spring Launch Tips

After a long winter’s wait the day finally arrives to launch your boat for the first run of the season. The good news is that it is spring and you are heading to the lake. The less-good news is that your boat has sat idle for about nine months (here in Alberta) and since you last drove it, someone has probably worked on the engine to winterize, summerize, and service it. Even the best technician can make an error when servicing your boat so as the “Captain of the Ship” you should check a few things before you slide it off the trailer. First. Did whomever winterize your boat drain the engine and put everything back together again or did they leave all hoses and plugs off for the winter to be assembled in the spring? Common practice if everything has been left apart, is to put the parts in a bag and hang them on the steering wheel. If this is the case you will need to have the boat “summerized”, probably by the shop that winterized it. At Hyperactive, our servicing includes putting everything back together as part of the winterization process but here are some things you should check before you launch: 1/ Before going to the lake: Are the batteries charged and is the oil level correct? Turn on the main battery switch and turn on the under-dash power switches (for Tige and some other brands). See if the lights and stereo work (accessory battery) and make sure there is power to the starter. Make sure the oil in the engine is present and at the correct level. Hyperactive saw a boat last year where new oil leaked into the bilge of a boat over the winter and on the first run the engine siezed. Do not start the engine on the trailer without an attachment that feeds water to the engine. 2/ Is the plug in the boat? Check this and check it again! 3/ At the launch, back the boat into the water but stay hooked to the trailer. Open the engine hatch (checking the oil again would not hurt) and turn on the blower. Start the boat while still hooked to the trailer and look closely around the engine to make sure that all water hoses have been re-attached properly. If one is not, you will soon see water spraying everywhere. Usually you can see which one is off and re-attach it. If the boat has a heater, check that the core is not leaking. It can usually be found under the dash/helm on the drivers or passenger side of the boat. If there is warm water on the floor in the boat it signals a problem with the heater. 3/ Let the engine warm up and look in the bilge to make sure there is not water coming in from somewhere else. A cracked or loose ballast pump or fitting can cause this. 4/ Make sure the engine is running smoothly and will idle in neutral before releasing the boat from the trailer. 5/ If everything looks and sounds “right”, release the boat from the trailer and idle away. When safe to do so, give the boat a short speed burst and then stop and visually inspect the engine bay again looking for water leaks. If a hose was re-attached but the clamp not tightened, it will blow the hose off when the water pressure increases at speed. If everything looks good, proceed but keep a watchful eye on the engine guages and an ear for anything un-usual.

If at all possible, take your boat for it’s first run at a local lake before going on vacation. If there is a problem, it will be easier to have your local dealer (or yourself) deal with it near home than when you are on vacation. If you live in Calgary, your boat should be run before you go on vacation in Kelowna etc.

While the above is not an all-inclusive list, it is based on years of experience with spring start-ups and hopefully proves helpful to getting your boating season started off smoothly.

Good Boating!

Here is another Article on the same topic courtesy of BoatU.S.

Boating checklist: Get that boat ready for spring!
By The Lake’s Vacation News
Boat checklist

It’s a sad fact: Every spring, shortly after being launched and commissioned for the season, boats sink while safely tied up at the dock, turning what should be a good time of the year into a real mess. BoatU.S.’ Seaworthy magazine, which combs through the BoatU.S. marine insurance claims files for important accident trends or lessons to learn, has identified the top five reasons for springtime sinkings, and created a checklist to help boaters start the season right.

Top five reasons why boats sink in the springtime

1. Missing or damaged hose clamps. These clamps are often removed in the fall to winterize the engine, and then forgotten about in the spring when the boat is launched. Tight spaces in engine compartments make it difficult to see some unsecured or deteriorated clamps.
2. Unsecured engine hoses. Over the winter, freezing water can lift hoses off seacocks (valves).
3. Spring rains. Combine heavy rains with leaking ports, deck hatches, cracked or improperly caulked fittings, chain plates and even scuppers clogged by leaves and your boat could be on the bottom soon.
4. Broken sea strainer. Glass, plastic and even bronze strainer bowls can be cracked or bent over the winter if not properly winterized, allowing water trickle in when the seawater intake seacock is in the open position.
5. Leaking stuffing box: If equipped, a steady drip from an improperly adjusted stuffing box (the “packing” around the prop shaft) has been known to swamp a boat.

Before you launch
1. Inspect and lubricate seacocks.
2. Hose clamps should be inspected and replaced as necessary. Double clamping hose connections with marine-rated stainless hose clamps, or keeping seacocks closed when you are away, are wise moves.
3. Inspect cooling hoses for stiffness, rot, leaks and cracking. Make sure they fit snugly.
4. Replace deteriorated sacrificial anodes.
5. Inspect prop(s) for dings, pitting and distortion. Make sure cotter pins are secure. Grip the prop and try moving the shaft – if it’s loose, the cutlass bearing (on inboard drive systems) may need to be replaced.
6. Check to make sure the rudderstock hasn’t been bent.
7. Inspect the hull for blisters, distortions and stress cracks.
8. Make sure your engine intake sea strainer is not cracked or bent from ice, is free of corrosion, clean and properly secured.
9. With inboards, check the engine shaft and rudder stuffing boxes for looseness. A stuffing box should only leak when the prop shaft is turning, and needs to be inspected routinely.
10. Use a garden hose to check for deck leaks at ports and hatches. Renew caulk or gaskets as necessary.
11. If equipped, ensure that the stern drain plug is installed.
12. After the boat is launched, be sure to check all through-hulls for leaks.

Engine outdrives and outboards

1. Inspect rubber outdrive bellows for cracked, dried and/or deteriorated spots (look especially in the folds), and replace if suspect.
2. Check power steering and power trim oil levels.
3. Replace anodes that are more than half worn away.
4. Inspect outer jacket of control cables. Cracks or swelling indicate corrosion and mean that the cable must be replaced.

Engines and fuel systems:

1. Inspect fuel lines, including fill and vent hoses, for softness, brittleness or cracking. Check all joints for leaks and make sure all lines are well supported with non-combustible clips or straps with smooth edges.
2. Inspect fuel tanks, fuel pumps and filters for leaks. Clamps should be snug and free of rust. Clean or replace fuel filters. Owners of gasoline-powered boats with fiberglass fuel tanks should consult a marine professional to inspect for any ethanol-related issues.
3. Every few years, remove and inspect exhaust manifold for corrosion.
4. Clean and tighten electrical connections, especially both ends of battery cables. Wire-brush battery terminals and fill cells with distilled water (if applicable).
5. Inspect bilge blower hose for leaks.

Sailboat rigging

1. Inspect swage fittings for cracks and heavy rust (some discoloration is acceptable). Inspect wire halyards and running backstays for “fishhooks” and rust.
2. Remove tape on turnbuckles and lubricate threads, preferably with Teflon. Replace old tape with fresh tape.
3. If you suspect the core around the chainplate is damp, remove the chainplate to inspect and make repairs.

Trailers

1. Inspect tire treads and sidewalls for cracks or lack of tread and replace as necessary. Check air pressure — don’t forget the spare.
2. Inspect wheel bearings and repack as necessary.
3. Test tail lights, back-up lights and winch to make sure they’re working properly. Inspect hitch chains.
4. Inspect trailer frame for rust. Sand and paint to prevent further deterioration.
5. Inspect brakes and brake fluid reservoir.

Miscellaneous

1. Check expiration dates on flares and fire extinguishers.
2. Check stove and remote tanks for loose fittings and leaking hoses.
3. Inspect bilge pump and float switch to make sure they’re working properly.
4. Inspect dock and anchor lines for chafing.
5. Check shore power cable connections for burns, which indicates the cable and/or the shore power inlet must be replaced.
6. Make sure your boating license and/or registration is up to date. Don’t forget your trailer tags.
7. Review your boat insurance policy and update coverage if needed.
8. Make sure you have properly sized and wearable life jackets in good condition for each passenger, including kids. Check inflatable life jacket cylinders.
9. Test smoke, carbon monoxide, fume and bilge alarms.
10. Be sure to get a free vessel safety check from the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary or U.S. Power Squadrons. Find out more at www.Safetyseal.net .

BoatU.S. – Boat Owners Association of The United States – is the nation’s leading advocate for recreational boaters providing over half a million members with government representation, programs and money saving services